Do-it Flutter JIG

[Hawnjigs]

Bucho was correct that even the smallest 1/4 size cast in light tin metal casts further into brisk wind today than any equivelant weight or slightly heavier standard jig, especially on 8# Nanofil. And, the plain bare metal slab caught 4 white bass despite a popper and bait dunker apparently not getting bit.

Surprisingly noteworthy is that a 10# carp was fair hooked in the mouth and landed. In addition to the 20# flathead I netted for him cupla weeks ago, last week my local slab mentor Murray landed a 40# flathead on 6# Nanofil. Concerns about internet reviews Nanofil breakoffs are no longer an issue.

I have no doubt that Bucho has created a best possible version of the Flutter Jig for his area applications. I prefer to bend a little uplift rocker into the nose portion of the slab to ride flat side down to minimize spinning, and it seems to be working for my apps.

 

[Bucho]

Concerns about internet reviews Nanofil breakoffs are no longer an issue.

.... for now. It is amazing what this line can do for a finesse angler but there will come a day when you cast out and the line simply desintegrates half length midair for no freaking reason you could possibly think of :huh: 

Glad to hear you got what you wanted out of the mold! I just got ready for autumn fixing myself some 7oz tins with shell veneer for open water slow pitch pike jigging   They look unreal.

 

[Bucho]

The Do-it style Swim Jig was actually available painted white or yellow & tied with matching feathers 40 yrs. ago, and my #1 favorite surface lure on Hawaiian reefs.  But bronze hooks rust and weaken very quickly in salt water, to the point of snapping under load, so had to give those up.

If it catches fish on Hawaii, needless to say I have to have it. And be it only for the sake of a once in a lifetime warmawter fishing experience.   

Mold arrived today together with some tailspinners. The wobbling action is nice indeed, although easily hampered by too much tying material. A few strands of flashabou look great in the water but foul permanently. Hawn I can see how this pattern works for you in a way that gets you a small slim fry silhouette with a large enough hook and good casting distance. The hooks are a dealbreaker though, I bought 50-packs to get started but will keep looking for stronger, salt resistant alternatives.

 

[hookup]

Modify the mold & get 91768bln

 

[jiggerjohn]

Hey Bucho, Quite a few years back a saltwater guy on the Gulf coast of Florida ordered one of these swim jig molds by mistake, but kept it and modified with heavy stainless hooks. His catch of everything, particularly pompano, was immediate and so astounding that locals forced him into business! The rest is history - Doc's Goofy Jig has become the most productive/popular lure in coastal Fl. Check out the history & testimonials at :

http://www.docsgoofyjigs.com/Pages/TheOriginalGoofyJig.aspx . Another similar model is called a "silly Willy" , also with improved hooks ,and I did a story on these for Midwest Finesse news,if ya want to google it ! Also I'm headed down that way in a few weeks (weather permitting!) for a fishing vacation, if ya want me to pick one up for ya,and mail it over!

 

[Hawnjigs]

Noticed that your ties Bucho appear to have an eel mindset, mine would incorporate a much shorter and maybe slightly fuller tie, appearing to be the tail of the slab baitfish body, with the tie material adding float allowing a slightly slower surface retrieve speed and controlling skips.

Still waiting for the right deal on eBay.

So far so good with Nanofil, tho twitch retrieving a too light a jig will cause loose loops to spill outside the spool wind area. A tin 1/4 FJ on 8# Nanofil still amazes me with casting distance even into the wind.

 

[Hawnjigs]

Forget Hawaii,  try this while you still can:

[video=youtube]http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmJD-RsVJnI[/video]

 

[hookup]

Nice Hawn

I got a 70+# bigeye once and that was a fight. Fish that size are crazy!

 

[Bucho]

I already got a hint at the pompano lure on FB where I posted the same pic. Seems to be a big deal there. The different teaser rigs got me thinking about using a "sacrifice" hook for the tail in orter to end the fouling.



I am not really looking for a long lure, rather trying to get a feel for the pattern. The most usefull application over here would probably be a small compact fry thingie for asp. Thats where I got the idea for the wobble fly for, they tried to get a potent hook into a small lure with a steady wobble. Hawn if you have pics of a tie that works I would be very interested.  

And the tuna - well, that`s Australia. A friend of mine lived in Brisbane for some time. He`s not much of an angler; I remember him talking about shore anglers everywhere "...and they actually catch something, all of them, fantastic fish!!"

 

[jiggerjohn]

I've experimented extensively with a small swim jig (originally a 1/24 oz ice spoon),then went to bigger models, then to a sparsely dressed Hawn's wide HU head (about 3/16 oz), all with a strange tail dressing that gives a fantastic slow,wide wobble even at the slowest retrieve speed! Ole Hawn himself put me on to the bait which was a Gulp"sinking minnow" (fat bodied 5" senko imitation), but based on a previous discovery I cut these 1/2" thick bodies into cross sections of about 3/8" high cylinders, or "cans" as I call them. Placing the hook through the flat bottom and out the top, a normal swim jig hook or HU sized hook will have the can sitting upright (like a soup can) with its circumference acquiring the water flow during retreive. This yields more action than most wobbling plugs or many standard spoon types, for a lead swim jig! These "cans" can also be cut from cross sections of standard soft plastic senko types or fatter plastic worms/grubs. Fit the height of these cylinders to the gap size of your hook, or experiment to find the best size for the amount of wobble desired. Of course these "cans" are small,but give a flash of color and maybe look like a wide swinging minnow tail (tho the whole jig zig-zags). Best thing I've found to actionize a lead bodied lure! One day last week, on an "impossible" close to big city lake I fished this can rig for 2 hours to take numbers of bass,walleye, channel cats, crappie ,bluegill, and sunfish !

 

[Bucho]

... I cut these 1/2" thick bodies into cross sections of about 3/8" high cylinders, or "cans" as I call them. Placing the hook through the flat bottom and out the top, a normal swim jig hook or HU sized hook will have the can sitting upright (like a soup can) with its circumference acquiring the water flow during retreive. This yields more action than most wobbling plugs or many standard spoon types, for a lead swim jig! These "cans" can also be cut from cross sections of standard soft plastic senko types or fatter plastic worms/grubs. Fit the height of these cylinders to the gap size of your hook, or experiment to find the best size for the amount of wobble desired. Of course these "cans" are small,but give a flash of color and maybe look like a wide swinging minnow tail (tho the whole jig zig-zags). Best thing I've found to actionize a lead bodied lure!...

The way I understood you is like this - but it doesn`t work at all

 

[jiggerjohn]

Hi Bucho, You have the right idea,but this particular jig body may be a bit heavy for the size "can" that you show ;try a bit thicker (circumference) plastic, and more height for the cylinder. Also I've found, at least on Hawn's wonderful wide HU heads that if I ELEVATE the cylinder by having the point come thru the plastic at about 3/4 of the top end , that wobbling motion is greatly enhanced. Experiment with this -know you're going to like it!

 

[Bucho]

Hawn maybe the key to better hookup is a single. Remember multiple hookpoints mean divison of penetration force. I just lost 2 nice zander failing to set a #4 treble with a stiff 1/2 - 1 oz rod. I can only imagine your finess gear and a wiper jaw...

Next to dificult fill-out, the main reason I never got too well aquainted with the 1/4 oz size FJ is the hook choice. I love my swivel set-up, but the only small open eye siwash choice so far were too thick wired VMC and overprized Gami 100 with inaccaptable availability. The one on the pic came from Japan at 40ct a piece. Then I noticed a fellow German casting spoon manufacturer using all kinds of closed eye single lure hooks in the same swivel fashion so I thought that opening and closing might be easier with those large hookeyes than it is with normal hooks that need heat treatment etc. Turned out is is. The small trout hooks I bought for put&take rainbows are very easy to open and close. The regular wire ones need some practice but work well, too.    

I´m sorry I displayed the wrong box, shown is a barbed #6 with out the "o". For some reason they only offer open eye as barbless - which I don´t like on a slab. Further down is a "devil´s claw" config which is popular for high hookups and less weed catching. 

Btw If anyone wants a few hundred VMC BN open eye seawash #8 at a very, very favorable price...

 

[m.t.pockets]

Bucho
 Where are you getting the decals for them or are you cutting them youself

 

[Bucho]

I get the bulk rolls from WTP and have them cut by a friend who runs a foil shop. I have to sit there all day and talk fishing stuff while he does it so I don´t sell them but I can ask him for the files. (1/2-3oz) I asked WTP, they would charge somewhere in the 100$ range for first time custom work.

The ones on the pic are 1/2 stuck onto 1/4, the 3/4 with shell veneer is cut by hand since the machine doesn`t accept it. This is a typical cut

 

[m.t.pockets]

the files would be great if he will part with them

 

[Hawnjigs]

The Devil's Claw looks interesting, tho I prefer my hook points upright. Gamakatsu 303 doubles are $.57 each + high shipping cost from Barlows.

How are you cutting your sprues ?

 

[Bucho]

I try to use the tips of the cutter so that it actually cuts rather than tear out. Can`t really recommend it though... That Gami looks good.  



couldn`t resist to mold an 50mm articulated shank into the largest cavity. Works well with a seawash. Maybe I dremel a little bulge out at the end so it locks the open shank ends. Than again, that would alter the mold for good... 

 

[hookup]

Bucho - I've altered 75% of my molds with a dremel

If you screw up, there's always JB Weld to fix

 

[Hawnjigs]

Or, just get another mold. I just got a Do-it Swim Jig on eBay. Probably modify the hook eye slot and bend to fit Mustad 92611-NI hooks which seems to be the MO for Doc's Goofy and Silly Willy salty slabs. I'll shop around for the hooks, running around 15 - $25 per 100 depending on size.
http://mustad-fishing.com/am/product/beak-hook-92611-ni92611/

The Gami price I stated was for the #6 which seems adequate for the 1/4 FJ. The mini EWG heavy wire appears to be near impossible to bend out and points are impeccable Gami. The turned down points probably miss a few sets tho.

Are those cutters designed with only one pointed tip? Flush or bypass?