Weedless Leech

[smalljaw]

This is an earlier jig I did which is a simple rabbit hair jig. I have made them with 2 tails and some silicone feelers and call it a rabbit craw but it is basically this jig.

 

[CrappieHappy]

Sweet jig!

 

[Hawnjigs]

Is this a smallmouth jig? Does the EWG hook in conjuntion with a fiberguard miss many hooksets?

 

[Fatman]

Smalljaw - very nice!!!!!!!

 

[StumpHunter]

Nice tied jig.

 

[Pup]

Great-looking tie.

 

[smalljaw]

Is this a smallmouth jig? Does the EWG hook in conjuntion with a fiberguard miss many hooksets?

This is a smallmouth jig and that head style with the hook and weedguard are fantastic, if fact I can't remember ever missing a fish that bit and I never lost one hooked on it. That fiber weedguard is 5/64" in diameter, it collapses easily but it does a great job of keeping the head from getting wedged deep between rocks.

 

[Hawnjigs]

Thanks for that info. My first and last experience with weedless jigs was with light wire aberdeen hook stand up jigs and stiff plastic Y-guards targeting pond largies. Missed practically all hooksets and even light 1/8 size seemed to snag up EZly.

 

[Hawnjigs]

Was wondering also, can the smaller size brush guard(FG12?) be glued or cast into into the larger FG30 jig heads?

Does the Poison Tail work better for you than other weedless jig styles? And do you trim off the collar for your leech tie?

 

[smalljaw]

Was wondering also, can the smaller size brush guard(FG12?) be glued or cast into into the larger FG30 jig heads?

Does the Poison Tail work better for you than other weedless jig styles? And do you trim off the collar for your leech tie?

When I want to make a larger size jig with the F12 weedguard, which is what is on the leech in the pic, I have an insert that I made which is a piece of 5/64" steel rod that is put inside a piece of 1/8" electrical wire and then I put it in the weedguard slot and the pour. The steel rod makes the small hole and the electrical wire keeps the small rod in place and keeps the lead from leaking out of the head area. I leave the collar on and just go over it with the hair, it works out as I make the tail long so by the time my wraps reach the collar it is lined up perfectly and it is just enough that when I finish my wrapping, only a small tag end goes over the ring on the collar and I just make some tight wraps of thread to cinch it down and them make the collar, it is pretty easy to do.

 

[Hawnjigs]

OK, so you pull out the bare metal wire from the plastic sleeve and insert the steel rod? I assume the plastic sleeve won't melt when the hot molten lead contacts it?

Altho material intensive, does sound like an EZ tie with a single long zonker strip and minimal underwrap on the collar.

 

[Fatman]

Hawn

I know Cadman and a bunch over at TU are using a Teflon Base hole pin insert instead of the metal ones - I know Barlows carries them in a couple of different size's you might be able to use a smaller one on casting the head, then pull to powder adn then glue the weed guard in after curing.

http://www.barlowstackle.com/Teflon-Base-Hole-Pins-P2186C220.aspx

 

[smalljaw]

OK, so you pull out the bare metal wire from the plastic sleeve and insert the steel rod? I assume the plastic sleeve won't melt when the hot molten lead contacts it?

Altho material intensive, does sound like an EZ tie with a single long zonker strip and minimal underwrap on the collar.

That is how I do it! I pull the wire out enough so I have the right amount of steel rod sticking out when I pout it in the wire casing. When I pour it does smoke a bit but it doesn't really melt. I also use a rubber skirt collar but with the 5/64" rod it would sometimes be off center when I closed the mold so I prefer the wire. I do however use the rubber skirt collar to add wire weedguard, it works great for that.

 

[Hawnjigs]

Thanks, smalljaw!