How to PP 50/50 ???

fish_4_all

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Jun 12, 2010
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I want to paint some spoons and spinner blades 50:50 and I need ideas on how to do it. I want as clean a line as possible with as little cross over as I can get.

Anyone have any ideas?

Might try these:
Copperhead:silver
Purple:black
Orange:pink
CART: Copperhead

The only thing I have come up with would be to use a wire to hold the spoon horizontal, dip it, cool, switch and redo.

I have no clue how I would do spinner blades without leaving tool marks in the paint.
 

Fireshadow

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brush and tap using a stencil of some kind. heat the spoon lay under the stencil and use brush and tap over the stencil to create the pattern. Try looking up brush and tap on you tube there is a video on this subject that gives a great visual.
 

fish_4_all

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I do a lot of brush and tap but I think it would a long time to comlpetely cover 25-50 #5 french blades and 2 inch spoons that way. I did see high temp tape on roseys so maybe I will try that and see if it protects the cured side so I can dip into a second color.

I will try it just to see how it turns out and see if I can get complete coverage without a lot of runs and drips.
 

Pepop

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Rosey's does carriy some High Temperature tape that might work. I bought a roll to try taping up the swivel of an under-spin before heating & dipping. The tape held up great but wasn't very practical for those tiny swivel's. You could probably tape (mask) the back of the spoon and heat & dip or even tape half & brush-tap for a clean line. Here's a link
http://www.roseyspowdercoating.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=tape
 

Bucko

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get a powder paint air brush. works well covering blades. my buddy.has one and I've used it a few times too. been wanting to.get one for myself for a while.now. may have to spring on it on of these days. google tj's tackle. he sells them. or on ebay he usually has one listed also.
 

toadfrog

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I do the whole blade in the base color then cut tin foil on a paper cutter the size I need . Fold it so I have a tab on the side for my hemostats to grab . Heat and tap or air brush the top color .
 

AtticaFish

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Never tried doing them 50/50 with two DIFFERENT colors of powder, but have used heat tape on an un-painted blade to paint only one side with decent results. Just have to make sure the blade is very clean of any finger prints/oil or the tape does not stick near as well when it starts to heat.

Never tried putting the tape on cured paint and re-heating. Cured powder paint will get a little soft when you re-heat it........ won't it? Have actually had some that was cured previously that bubbled and smoked when it was re-heated.

Posted these pics a while back..... not trying to hi-jack - just showing it is possible to get at least one coat down.

101_3799_e.jpg


101_3812_e.jpg


101_3827_e.jpg


101_3874_e.jpg


101_3875_e.jpg


 

Bucho

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Kiel, Germany
AtticaFish said:
...have used heat tape on an un-painted blade to paint only one side with decent results...

Nnnice! :icon14: Now I know what I need such tape for!

As for the toolmarks - When dipping in a (self made) fluid bed, I use a pair of pliers to hold the blade over the heat source.

For the the dipping itself, however, I leave the now heated pliers out of the game and put the blade onto a fresh cool S-shaped hook on which it remains for curing. Such procedure leaves only minimal tool marks on the inside of the hole.
Second layer should be applied after curing the first one, which is now much better to handle when hot. This also helps against dripping/noses.

I like to powdercoat all my blades, even in clear, for 2 reasons:
1. salt water use,
2. for a better "touch" - fish, like all beeings, hate the feel of metal on their teeth and hold on to a painted lure much longer.
 

Lost Pole

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Dunno if this'll help but I use one of the cheap magnetic pro tractable tools with the screwdriver type handle from harbor freight for one side coating without any tool marks. Never do both sides though.
Paint on reflectors is purty for fishermen but I think the fish probably prefer the flash at its highest level, so i leave one shiny. Or maybe it's just bc Im too lazy to figure it out.
Those blades Russ posted are killer! Gotta get some of that tape
 

fish_4_all

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I really like what you did with the one Attica, makes me think that I can at least do stripes with heat tape. I wish I could make a stencil that would protect certain parts of the spoon and then the opposite parts for the other color. I guess it owuldn't be such an issue but the spoons I have are steel and I have to coat them completely to prevent rust. Figured I would lose them before the paint chipped of enough to worry about rust and they were cheap.

For silver plated stuff it will be easy now that I see how well the tape works.
 

fish_4_all

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Has anyone tried laying a spoon or spinner blade on a piece of aluminum foil and tapping or dusting on powder paint and then heating it in a toaster oven? I know it will stick to the foil but it should peel off fairly easy and clean up nicely if not cured right?


I was also ask roseys if the heat tape can be used over PP and not stick or ruin it.
 

Bucko

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I would suppose if you cut a blade how you want it and use that as a stencil would work too. honestly for doing blades I think you should check out the air brush gun. tjs tackle has some.videos posted o. bis website that shows it in action. I use a friends gun when I do blades and spinnerbaits. just have to rig a cardboard box with a hole cut in it. put the end of a small shop vac in the hole to suck up the overspray.
 

fish_4_all

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I did find out that you can put the high temp over previously cured powder coating, reheat the blade and then do the rest of it.

I am not sure how well I coud use an airbrush and I am not sure how I would paint 1/2 of the front one color and then 1/2 the front another color with one but I will watch the videos and see if it might work for me that way.
 
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