Hard or Soft Lead?

Hawnjigs

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For tackle casting, "hard" lead generally refers to an alloy with antimony hardener like wheel weights, and "soft" is generally pure lead or nearly so. My personal guideline for "hard" is 2% or more antimony content, and "soft" 1/2% or less. Between the two values I would define as "medium soft" or "medium hard". Tin content of commercial lead alloys is usually small and effect on hardness is negligeable.

There are excellent articles published online listing typical metals composition of common lead alloys, but often we get mystery lead cast into forms, ingots, sinkers, etc. To determine hardness, I use several tests:
1. Scratch Test: fingernail pressure can scratch or even gouge soft lead, difficulty increases with hardness.
2. Appearance: soft lead will often form an even dark oxide coating over time, harder lead will often retain a grainy silvery surface appearance.
3. Drop Test: soft lead will have a dull sound dropped on a concrete surface, harder lead a higher pitched ringing sound.
4. Clink Test: tapping two same alloy pieces together will produce sound results similar to the drop test.
5. Melt Test: pure lead will melt transition directly from solid to liquid, hard lead will usually exhibit an in between sludge phase.

While the above tests are useful for a preliminary idea, its possible to better define the hardness of lead using a relative weight test. Needful equipment for this includes a scale accurate to 100th of an oz. or like my Ohaus beam balance 10th of a gram, and a mold capable of identical size castings, bigger the better within the capacity of the scale. Using 5 oz. sinkers, soft lead weighs 140.6 grams and hard wheel weight lead weighs 136 grams, & even these limited reference points can be useful in determining relative hardness of a mystery alloy.

Please feel free to correct or improve this posting.
 

Uncle Grump

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Hawn

When I first got some molds and lead (package deal), I thought I had all soft lead.....as I could scratch/gouge it w/ my finger nails.....

Then I acquired some wheel weights, melted them, and found I could scratch/gouge them too....

so - doubting I have extremely hard finger nails, I tend to discount the scratch test. I tend to rely on the "thunk"/drop test (#3).

I do agree w/ #2 - my hard lead does have the grainy/silver/crystaline appearance. My known soft lead (prior to melt & fluxing) is very dark.

UG
 

Hawnjigs

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Well, UG, you might have harder than usual nails...

Would like to clarify that antimony weighs only 59% as much as lead, and tin 63%, so the more of these metals present in a lead alloy the lighter it will be.

Correctly identifying soft-hard lead is critical in my casting since many of my smaller size jig head molds will only pour with very soft lead.
 

fishhunter775

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I will have to agree with you there UG the scratch test isnt always right as Ive found some lead that sure fooled me ha ha.I can pour down to the 1/100th with pure wheel weights,Hawn is also right that they will weigh out on the light side with the hard stuff,also molds will vary a little also.
 

Hawnjigs

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Yes, rather than relying on a single test, I usually correlate the first 4 in combination when evaluating scrap lead. Scrap sinkers are especially difficult to pre-melt test. I've had dark coated sinkers that sludge melted, indicating significant antimonial content. Also sinkers I thought didn't dull thunk like soft lead, but melted sludge free.

One also can't assume pliability = soft. Tho often soft, some easily bendable sheet and wire lead I've gotten sludge melted.

Batches of wheel weights varied up to 2 grams in my 5 oz. sinker weight test, which I assume equates with a published 2-3% average antimonial content range.
 

Uncle Grump

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Hawnjigs said:
One also can't assume pliability = soft. Tho often soft, some easily bendable sheet and wire lead I've gotten sludge melted.

Amen to that. I've got some dental xray lead (bite wings) that I got from my dentist right before he went digital. Nice soft flexible lead. Very clean - minimal or no sludge when you flux it (I flux everything), yet once my muffin tin ingots cool, they 'clink' w/ the drop test.

UG
 
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