I have for quite a while used lacquer to attach eyes. even with the smallest brush, it can be a bit unruly and sloppy. Couple days ago, I got the wild idea to use a syringe with a hypodermic needle to dispense small amounts of lacquer. After having done a couple dozen cranks and a hundred or so jig heads can only say I wish I had thought of it earlier. I found a box of syringes with needles left over from my wifes allergy shots years ago. Small 3ml, and about a 1/2" needle. amazing how neat and clean it dispenses glue. Even more amazing is how little glue you need. Also had a few bucktail jigs and was able to inject glue into the collars. beats using a dropper between layers and much neater.
Glueing eyes,
- Thread starter Kdog
- Start date
toadfrog said:
I'm sure they will. but a quick soak in lacquer thinner will dissolve any dried lacquer, I kept is with the cap on for 2 days and it has'nt dried. rinsed it tonight so its ready to go again. Fortunately a box of 100 is only $26.00.
duffy
Member
Could you use the fine wire and rubber cap that comes with those handy dandy dispenser bottles?? I guess it depends on the gauge of needle that's on your syringe.
Here is my dirty little secret. This stuff is the hardest clear coat I have found. I put it on all my bass jigs, spinners and chatters. Yes pricey but you wont have an eye come off or even a chip from the rocks. I at first trying to dip the jigs in their clear coat, but its to wasteful and messy. Buy the aerosol can. You wont be disappointed.
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/DiamondFinish-Clear.html
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/DiamondFinish-Clear.html
I usually do 50 to 100 jigs, or 25 crank baits at a time. Just need to keep eye in place while the clearcoat cures. D2T less than an hour, etex and some of the other slow cure products I use take 24 hours
I use d2t, but the problem is heeping the eyes in place with D2T when in a hurry or ETEX when I am more concerned about appearance. Etex requires turning and I have a jig turner so no problem there some eyes pop loose on the turner unless they were preglued. Ive tried lots of so called self adhesive eyes and most work but every once in a while one or more will pop. Not a big issue with jigs, but crank baits it can be a killer. Trust me when I say forget about removing cured epoxy to salvage an often times expensive crank bait body.
Locally we had a lure maker producing a lure called A.C. Shiner several sizes are no longer available and I think the lure is pretty much defunct. The lure does however have a very loyal following and when properly restored sell for ~30.00. I find them at yard sales and garage sales all the time most are pretty beat up. They are easy to restore, refoil, air brush white belly and black back new yellow and black eyes then clear coat. The originals were clear coated with a resin that I cannot duplicate and I have tried all kinds of clearcoats. Either the action changes or coating is too heavy or too light or not very durable. For me, the etex has been the best. But eyes gotta stay where they were put.
I use d2t, but the problem is heeping the eyes in place with D2T when in a hurry or ETEX when I am more concerned about appearance. Etex requires turning and I have a jig turner so no problem there some eyes pop loose on the turner unless they were preglued. Ive tried lots of so called self adhesive eyes and most work but every once in a while one or more will pop. Not a big issue with jigs, but crank baits it can be a killer. Trust me when I say forget about removing cured epoxy to salvage an often times expensive crank bait body.
Locally we had a lure maker producing a lure called A.C. Shiner several sizes are no longer available and I think the lure is pretty much defunct. The lure does however have a very loyal following and when properly restored sell for ~30.00. I find them at yard sales and garage sales all the time most are pretty beat up. They are easy to restore, refoil, air brush white belly and black back new yellow and black eyes then clear coat. The originals were clear coated with a resin that I cannot duplicate and I have tried all kinds of clearcoats. Either the action changes or coating is too heavy or too light or not very durable. For me, the etex has been the best. But eyes gotta stay where they were put.
duffy
Member
Would super glue work just to hold them in place or does it react with the clear coat and or eye's? I know it will mess up some plastics.
You have more patience than me . Crank baits are something I can, If I really had to make them but they make me crazy. I do eyes with super glue unless they are recessed then I can let the epoxy do it's thing . Do you ever have issues with the epoxy making the eyes bleed . I got some eyes some time back that bleed pretty bad .
duffy
Member
Just for the heck of it I tried one of those light cured CA pens on a couple of eye's and it worked pretty good. It's one of those "seen on tv" units with the UV light at one end and a pen like dispenser on the other. It's a gell and with the pen it's easy to place a small drop, set the eye on it and then just shine the UV light through the eye. Set's up in seconds and the places I've used it it's pretty darn tough. Stay's just a little flexible but not sticky. I've seen them in the discount places but most are still $5 and I don't know how many eye's one would do but it's just a thought.
Gave that a shot on plastics . Needless to say it didn't work . So I ordered some spike-it lure and worm paint . to do eyes on plastics . Crap better work . Something does because I have some plastics over ten years old and the hand painted eyes are still stuck firm . The guy that did them passed away and took that knowledge with him .