drying powder paint

[Lost Pole]

I remember reading somewhere, sometime back, that pp can be ruined by humidity. I'm wondering if thats my problem and would like to try the oven technique. Anybody have any info on temps and baking times?
This is my last resort bf I start stepping towards just purchasing a fluid bed I know will work.
Thanks for any information.

Adam

 

[toadfrog]

Powder paint is affected by heat mostly , heat leaches out the moisture all plastics have in them. What exactly is your paint doing . As far as the source of heat used to cure you can use infrared , gas as long as the flame is not open directly to the painted surface , and electric ovens of varying types. I personally have not found or been able to create the perfect fluid bed. Believe me I have built a couple dozen weird and wacky fluid beds . Nearly all of us on Jig Craft can help you build one. Different colors of pp react to curing time some take a little less heat . Some work out fine with 350. I'll try to dig up a chart , varying time and temp is often a cure for the product.

 

[ScottV]

What type problems are you having Adam?

 

[Lost Pole]

I was trying to post a video but gave up. What I'm having to do is shake the bed to keep movement in the powder , or else it goes dead. Now bf I go blaming the bed I must admit to not taking proper precaution when I first started painting to keeping my powders covered. The reason I'm thinking it's the powders is that I have one that I had never used that works pretty good.

Adam

 

[LedHed]

If the paint is usable when you agitate while the air is blowing through it - try using 1 part clear 3 part problem paint – might even try a 50/50 mix.

If you can get bottled nitrogen – that will dry it out.

You can also try small desiccant bags. Keep them in a warm dry place (re-charge) before you use them with your paint.

 

[Lost Pole]

If the paint is usable when you agitate while the air is blowing through it - try using 1 part clear 3 part problem paint – might even try a 50/50 mix.

If you can get bottled nitrogen – that will dry it out.

You can also try small desiccant bags. Keep them in a warm dry place (re-charge) before you use them with your paint.

Thanks again for your help.
I've seen improvement with the plastic screen you sent.
Have tried to find out its make, but the best guess that was given to me was that it was a "filter cloth".

Never had or used any clear. Guess I need to get some.
Recommendations for where to buy?

Also, for the people using 3" cups, abouuuut how much paint are you using in the cup?
I've mixed a bunch of new colors in bigger batches that are prob. needed for the cup and am afraid I might be overloading the cup. I usually spoon 'em in lil by lil trying to find what works. Experimented a bunch and found smaller amts get a good movement but more volcanoes and that larger amts roll great when agitated. Just haven't found the happy medium and nail polish is giving me headaches.


Thanks for everyones help.
Adam

 

[ScottV]

Adam I've seen where certain colors boil better than others. When I first made my fluid bed, I used 4 inch cups. Since then I went with 2 inch cups and they seem to work better. It doesn't take as much paint either. I use coffee filters on my cups.

 

[LedHed]

Adam

I haven't used a FB in a real long time. I like multi colors and use brushes.

The material you have is micro mesh from McMaster-Carr.

Pro-Tec has an excellent clear. Columbia Coatings super high gloss clear is good stuff also.

 

[Lost Pole]

Thanks Sonny, tf & Scott. I appreciate all the help.

Adam