Bit of a trouble pouring

Costa

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Jul 17, 2018
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The one on the left is what I’ve poured almost a hundred times. The one on the right, well, I poured over 5 ones that look like this after a couple of perfect pours. 

Lead was hot, mold was hot, lead was clear of residue and like I said, I’ve poured a couple of good ones early on and they started getting like this. 

I can’t seem to get my head around it. Any other problems that could cause this?


2826DEB7-C9D6-4318-AA19-5EC721F15536_zpsis4p7aft.jpg
 

arnesr

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Did you switch to different lead, perhaps a different alloy with more antimony, like wheel weights?
 

Costa

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I did mix in some old lead from some used bank sinkers. You suspect the lead I am using perhaps have something in them causing the premature cooling?
 

Hawnjigs

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I agree with "arnesr" that antimonial content of the alloy may be causing incomplete fill out. The appearance of the surface texture of the sprue also suggests this.

Bank sinkers are often poured with cheap scrap lead like wheel weights, which clip on type is generally hardened with antimony.
 

Bucho

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Costa said:
I did mix in some old lead from some used bank sinkers. You suspect the lead I am using perhaps have something in them causing the premature cooling?

Just to give you a better understanding, antimony is not only harder but also has a higher melting point than pure lead. So to be exactly, we are speaking of premature hardening, not premature cooling. You will have to use this alloy with higher temperatures and/or flow aditives to get the same results.

Please be extra carefull with used sinkers or anything scavanged that has an insert and might contain traces of humidity, as described in the safety thread.
 

duffy

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Turn your pot up and see if that helps. Make sure there's no oil in your mold. Also flux your mix several times and take off a thin top layer. Be careful with scrap lead anymore because if it has any zinc in it it'll ruin the whole pot as it pours like mud. Also what gaspumper said.
 

Kdog

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Since I've been using Frankfort arsenals drop out, incomplete pours even due to questionable/contaminated lead are virtually a thing of the past.  Early on I just used baby powder which works well but is kinda messy.  However either/ both are worth a shot rather than pitching a whole pot of lead. Cleaning and Fluxing lead work well to remove oxides, but contaminates and alloying agents such as tin, copper, antimony, zinc  are not easily removed.  Zinc can be vaporized out of the melt but Im not sure I want to inhale those fumes.

OTOH, for personal use, a wrinkle or two can be hidden or covered with PP and honestly probably are meaningless as far as function is concerned
 

slammingjack

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If you are using a lee pot, here's two things to try.  First is from a cold pot of lead, set temperature very low ( like on 4) lead has a lower  melting point to some of the other metals. I had this happen to me once, I somehow got Zinc in my lead. I was able to get the Zinc out. Also make sure your spout is cleaned out real good. It should fill the mold very fast. I use a metal paper clip to clean the spout out.
 

Jay Wirth

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Two things I would try 1) smoke your mold 2) try holding at different angles (not too drastic) just enough to see how thing flow
 

Bigjim

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Lee Pot. Yes, it LEAKS!!! VENTILATE !!! My pot is set on highest temp. Impurities seem to float so we spoon them out. To the right is a pile spooned out, we will scrap that out at the recycle place and use the money for lead.
 

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hookup

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I was able to cure about 90 percent of my leaking . Got the same lead pot

Emptied the pot and scraped out allot of what I thought looked like sand at the bottom of the pot. Cleaned out the pour spout, and wet sanded the pour rod.

Now when the pot leaks, I turn the screw part of the pour rod 1/4" or so and leak fixed.

Also I no longer use my pot to "recycle" lead. Got an old pot that the pour spout's rusted shut. Removed the hardware for the pour rod and use it melt any "dirty" lead, scrap off any impurities that rise to the top, then use a ladle to pour mini-muffins for later use. Helps keep the pouring lead pot clean.
 

Bigjim

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Yes, we do them same. Years ago a gentleman told me to add beeswax once in a while to [clean it]. So we do that still. Every pour is different but we like happy fisherman so we keep at it.
 

hookup

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I use to surf and had a few bars of Mr. Zog's Sex Wax - it is a surf wax used to coat the deck of a surfboard and provide traction between the surf.

Works just fine - put in when the leads cold and let it heat up with the lead - otherwise wax'll catch fire when added to a hot lead pot.

Learned that lesson
 

Bigjim

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Yes, did that before. Splattered everything once with lead that had moisture in it. I always wear safety glasses now!!!
 

Hawnjigs

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A metalurgy expert on castboolits.com claimed that the flames were instrumental in drawing impurities to the top of the melt. I tend to agree as the flames cause the slag float to convert into powder impurities returning the usable metal back into the melt. Not sure thats a good idea in a bottom pour pot as some of the powder will end up at the bottom underneath the liquid metal.
 

hookup

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A metalurgy expert on castboolits.com claimed that the flames were instrumental in drawing impurities to the top of the melt. I tend to agree as the flames cause the slag float to convert into powder impurities returning the usable metal back into the melt. Not sure thats a good idea in a bottom pour pot as some of the powder will end up at the bottom underneath the liquid metal.

Good points Hawn. Didn't know that about the flames.

The powder on the bottom was one thing I discovered when my bottom pour pot started leaking. Could not believe how much powder was on the bottom because I assumed it would all float on top of the lead.
 

Bigjim

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Photos of the attic fan I use to ventilate. I watch you tube with guys pouring inside with no air movement, seems like a no-no. I do not wear gloves but use hand cream as a barrier on my skin. also wash my hands asap after pouring or painting. Just some thoughts.
 

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