widening the pour hole on 1/100 mold?

Slims

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I just cant seem to pour consistent jig heads with my 1/100 mold from jacobs mold and machine. Have any of you guys used this particular mold? I bought a heat gun and preheated and all that good stuff, but I keep getting partial pours and I just think it comes down to the intake. What do you guys think about drill pressing it to a wider opening?
 

hookup

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On one of my 'custom' molds (I modified a mold to that was close to what I wanted, but not exact) I opened up the pour hole w/ a dremel & that didn't help. In fact, it made the slag thicker & harder to remove.

What ended up working is getting the lead as hot as the pot allowed, and setting the mold on top of the pot so long that it made the handles almost to warm to comfortably handle.
 

fishhunter775

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It also will be affected by the amount of lead flowing, if you have a control over the flow try slowing it down a little, also as stated make sure every thing is real hot and mold good and warm. Those little heads fill very fast and if your pouring to fast it will set before filling the cavity.
 

Kdog

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My Jacobs 1/100 gave me fits until I got it hot and I mean hot... 20-25 casts without hooks
Metal needs to be very clean. The other thing that helped was dusting the cavitities with baby powder then blowing off the excess.
After a couple runs though, I stopped the baby powder and would preheat the mold by setting it on top of the pot for 25 minutes or so.

Good luck and be patient
 

Bucko

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Just as they said. Smaller the cast, hotter the mold needs to be. If you have a bottom pour try putting the nozzle thingy on the bottom of your pot right into the sprue hole of the mold. It's late and yes I did call it a nozzle thingy. Can't remember what it is actually called.....
 

Slims

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Kdog said:
My Jacobs 1/100 gave me fits until I got it hot and I mean hot... 20-25 casts without hooks
Metal needs to be very clean. The other thing that helped was dusting the cavitities with baby powder then blowing off the excess.
After a couple runs though, I stopped the baby powder and would preheat the mold by setting it on top of the pot for 25 minutes or so.

Good luck and be patient

Thanks KDOG. I was ready to just take the loss and buy a DO IT 1/100 mold, but I like Rick, I like to support his molds and his plastic molds are top notch. Im just getting super frustrated.
 

plateboater

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Slim......cast about 10 times before you put in some hooks to heat up. Adjust your pour. I do not have his 100 but I have a lot of his molds.
 

LedHed

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It might be technique Slims. Your lead might be cooling before it gets into the small cavity. Getting the cavity as close to the pouring spout and maybe slightly tilting the mold while you pour should help.
Don't open the spru hole.
You have to get close with the Do-it semi custom also.
 

Slims

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LedHed said:
It might be technique Slims. Your lead might be cooling before it gets into the small cavity. Getting the cavity as close to the pouring spout and maybe slightly tilting the mold while you pour should help.
Don't open the spru hole.
You have to get close with the Do-it semi custom also.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions guys. I am using a palmers hot pot II. Next time I go to pour I will really heat the mold up with hookless pours, and see if that makes the difference Im looking for.
 

hookup

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One of my molds needs to be so hot, the hands feel the heat through the handle before the pours behave.

Playing with the tilt of the mold during pouring's a good tip. I have another mold that requires tilting for clean pours.

It's an art
 

Fatman

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Slims - take a tri-angle file and straight up the tip of the pour spout make a fine groove with tri-angle file. This will give you a finer stream of lead when you pour it.
 
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