questions for my teachers

hhawkins

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Aug 8, 2010
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Alright, I've have been watching you tube videos on tying, getting pretty educated, but the people on the videos do not say how tight to tye on the material or how many times do you wrap the thread around the hook and material. And what size thread do I need to start with? I also see the people on the videos use a whip stitch when they finish. It all looks really easy to get going. Many of the people also use a clear coat called Hard as Nails to finish and glue down the end of the thread. I know I'm being a pain, sorry! I want to do it right. Help! Thanks, Heather
 
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I really don't count the wraps so maybe 5 times around per material depending. To start your hook wrap cover it all the way to the bend usually once so you don't see any hook show through. Different fly materials might dictate more or less wraps. If you are tying on a piece of fur or feather for a tail, it's length on the hook will determine. Some people put on a pinch of hair and just a little on the shaft while others place it on the length of the hook if they want an under body to bulk it up. Now if you are placing barbell eyes you will need to do a bunch of figure eights and could do 15 or more wraps. I like to snug them down tight and have a nice amount of thread in that area. You would want to use a little more on a zonker strip or just a couple to secure legs/antennae. That is something you just get a feel for and you should give it a tug test as you apply your materials. If it pulls out then re wrap it more. Better to find out as you make it then to finish it and it falls apart. Some like to do a whip finish by hand and others use the tool, I prefer the tool. Hard as nails can be found where you buy nail polish. Save your first one and refer back to it after 100 flies and be amazed how far you progress. Fly Tying - Where imagination & innovation meet feathers & Fur to trick a fish onto your hook.
 

Hawnjigs

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I can suggest some advantages of thicker tying thread for simple jig ties - "Big Fly" thread I prefer won't snap as easily under tension as 3/0(next lighter) & 6/0(very thin), and generally requires less wraps for coverage or build. Works fine for me down to 1/32 #8.

"Hard As Nails" might be the best for coating jig heads, but for sealing thread wraps a cheap brand will work OK. Huge difference in price.
 

toadfrog

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Just about every question you asked is dependant on what you are tying , size of lure you are tying ect. Doll flies as they were known in my day are the easiest. Thats a ball head jig with a collar. It requires about 5 - 6 wraps to cench the thread before you add the material , take 2 or 3 snug wraps around the material hold tension with bobbin , take your thumb nail and spread the material evenly around the collar under the thread. once thats done just start wrapping until the material is covered an you have a uniform build up behind the head.tie it off coat it with anything that dries clear . nail polish , vynil clear coat, whatever. DONE DEAL
 

AtticaFish

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As posted by others, it depends alot on the material you are using. The first thread base you start with needs to be very tight wrapped or else your finished tie will spin around the hook shank. One other tip not mentioned above.... If i want a thicker base, i use a layer of yarn wrapped tightly around the shank. This works really good for tying on zonker strips.
 

ScottV

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I use 210 Denier flat waxed thread when I am tying crappie jigs. In fact, that's all I tie is crappie jigs. Ditto on what everybody else said also. Another little thing I do is put a little clear nail polish on my thread wrap before I tie in my tail material. I feel like it sorta glues things a little tighter. I usually finish with 4 or 5 whip finish knots and put a drop of head cement on the spot where I cut the thread. If I apply 3D or stick-on eyes, I'll cover them with clear polish. If I paint eyes, I'll also use the polish to seal them. Hope this helps Heather.
 

quivira kid

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I guess I'm doing this all wrong! I've been using 6/0 Uni on 99% of my stuff and have yet to have a problem.
Heather, the best advice I can give you is to get with someone locally that knows what they're doing. Sit down with them for an hour or two and tie jigs. You'll learn a TON!
 
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Dallas area
You might check with Bass Pro Shop. The ones here have a tying club that ties there once a week. One BPS does it on Saturday and the other does it on Wednesday. The fly section employee's will also tie something in front of you if you need help. Cabella's also has tying classes.
 

hhawkins

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Fish Candy Bait Company said:
You might check with Bass Pro Shop. The ones here have a tying club that ties there once a week. One BPS does it on Saturday and the other does it on Wednesday. The fly section employee's will also tie something in front of you if you need help. Cabella's also has tying classes.

Thanks for the info on the Bass Pro shop class, but not to be mean I do work at Bass Pro. My store is a small store so we don't get all the special classes like the big stores do :( But I have been going to to my fishing buddies at work and they have helped me out a great deal. Thank you!
 

skeetbum

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Aug 26, 2010
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Debary, FL
This is an old thread that I just wanted to put in my 2 cents. As Scott does, I have lately begun to put a half a drop of Sally on the shank to begin, then start. Probably doesn't matter on most jigs but I had one rotate after being complete a while back, a larger one, and like the insurance. I break thread now and then, so I guess I tie stuff in tight. I use 70, 140 , and 210 denier thread for different applications. I like the way the 70 hides when tying a chenille body, and use the others when I tie more utilitarian stuff or bigger stuff. All my bucktail ties get 210. My idea of testing if your ties are tight enough is to pull on the stuff you tied in and see if it pulls out. I test others that way, and have had others test mine like that so I guess it works. Listen to everyone and try what is suggested and develop your own style. Trial and error isn't all bad.
 
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