Keeping round heads...well umm...round?

[Orange_Caddis]

As I stated in a earlier post, I'm new to pouring jigs and my focus is on trout and steelhead jigs. I was pouring some 1/80, 1/64, and 1/32 oz. round head jigs, and after removing the sprue I'm getting a noticeable flat spot on the smaller sized jigs. But if I cut further back, I got a lot of excess material to remove.

Is there a trick to avoid flat spots on round head jigs? Any tips or pointers would be great.

Thanks,
Jason

 

[Hawnjigs]

Have you tried jiggling off the sprue till it breaks off the head?

 

[Orange_Caddis]

Have you tried jiggling off the sprue till it breaks off the head?

I tried that a couple times and found that the lead around the hook loosened up. I know I must be missing something, because all of my previously purchased jigs were much rounder at the sprue location.

Jason

 

[Fatman]

I don't use cutters anymore - I hold the jig head in a gloved hand and with needle nose bend back and forth and then twist, a quick touch with a file and they're fine. Even if some are loose powder painting will take care of it.

 

[Hawnjigs]

OK, so you're pouring a JNR-6-A with soft lead. Sounds like a harder alloy that sets more firmly around the hook might help, but I don't have that mold so someone like Fatman may provide an alloy suggestion.

Your purchased heads may have been poured with minimal sprue Do-it Semi Custom & Pro molds which sprue is EZer to remove and leaves a smaller break scar.

 

[redman]

OC one of the common things that people who start to pour is not tip their mold at a angle when pouring. I find that this helps. One thing that I do when I am removing the sprue is to make a small cut with a side cutter ( wire cutters ) before I snap them off. Snap might not be the right word but it works for me. Then I scrape them on the round to match the curvature of the head. I have some older Do-It molds and find that they have thicker sprues that the new ones. I used the pure lead on them and have very little trouble with the heads being loose from the hook. Think that ether you are not getting the lead and mold hot enough before pouring or that you need to hold your mold at a angle while pouring.

Some one might have another solution. I am just giving you a few tips that I use while pouring.

Redman

 

[Fatman]

OC that mold is gonna be hard to pour because those smaller sizes are going to need pure - OR you could try a 2-1 mix (2 parts tire weight/ 1 part pure) I've been able to pour down to 1/48th in a Pony mold with that. But agree with redman tilt the mold.

Two other things it could be! Just remember those little heads don't take much lead so it could also be you're not letting them cool enough before your taking them out of the mold - and make sure your getting them out by the sprue not the hook.

 

[redman]

Fatman that is a very good point. Take the head out by the sprue not by the hook. Some of the things we do become so automatic that we think that every one does them. As Orange is a new pourer he has a bit of a learning curve. With our advice I am sure he will get better and he won't have as many problems as in the past. I have to admit the small sizes are a challenge to pour.

Redman

 

[Fatman]

The 1/48th pony as I said is the smallest one I pour. I've looked at the mold several times on ebay and new but for me it's almost easier to trade for them and I don't have the hassles!!LOL

 

[slipbobber]

If your pouring them for yourself after you paint them the paint will help hold it also. What I do on the smaller heads is I take the head in the needle nose pliers. Gently hold it while my other hand holds the sprue, slowly wiggle your pliers back and forth until it comes off. You may have to try it a few times to get this. Hope this helps

 

[StumpHunter]

It may be the sprue cutter you are using. The head will need a little filing or I use a knife to round the heads.