Horz. Action - Vertical Fishing

AtticaFish

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New Concept - Lots of BS in my brain - Sorry i am so full of hot air. :blush:

I know, i know - Keep It Simple Stupid. If it ain't broke, don't fix it! But.......... I got this general idea from some lindy (maybe? can't remember for sure where i saw them) ice jigs that are meant to dart and glide somewhat horizontaly when jigged verticaly. If anyone has ever used a jigging rapala, it would be a similar motion i assume. Instead of doing the smart thing and ordering some, i decided to go the 'creation' route. I really think this could have alot more applications than through the ice, probably not down in brush where it would tangle on branches easily, but maybe for more open water. This would also be mostly for boat (or ice) anglers who are fishing verticaly, i don't think it would make any difference to a shore bound angler. The majority of my vertical fishing is done through the ice and only occasional from a kayak.

I tried the bead/pin idea (that JoJoPro posted) with the crimp-on lead shot, but could not get the lead to keep from twisting around the pin. So, i took some generic abberdeen hooks and cut the point off just behind the barb and made the bend a little more closed. I shaped the lead, slid it on and crimped it down. It creates a little loop of wire to hold the lead straight.

View attachment 6

Below are some finished jigs....
6, 7 & 8 are too big for ice fishing crappie or perch, but thought a walleye may give them a look. Weight i would guess to be somewhere between 1/16 & 1/8 by the size of the shot. 6 & 7 i used #4 baitholder hooks and would either be pre-tied on a leader or use the split rings, threading line to the hook eye through the chenille with numb fingers would not be easy! 1 & 2 have #8 jig hooks, 3, 9 & 10 have a #6 aberdeen with bent eye, 4 & 5 have #10 1-XL nymph fly hooks. These are still works in progress, that is the reason for all the different hooks and head shapes.... so far there seems to be alot of factors involved to get it to 'swim' horz. when lifted verticaly. Line diamater has alot to do with it, similar to the way line diamater affects how deep a crankbait dives is my guess.

View attachment 7

My trial/error testing results so far: Jig 8 i would say is the champion so far! 6, 7 & 8 have the largest horizontal dart, running completly out of view through my hole in the ice without much of a lift. The smaller sizes i am having trouble getting the same result with. 1, 2, 3 & 10 have very little horz. action on the lift but actually swim away somewhat on the fall. Jig 9..... it swims all right, but not as i had hoped - it swims BACKWARDS!! HA!!! Think of the 'as seen on TV' flying lure and that is about what it does. 4 & 5 i haven't had the chance to get in the water yet. Hawnjigs 'hooksup' jig may have some potential with the iregular/triangle shaped head and just realized that LedHed's Phlatapus also may be an option with the lead 'bill' out front, but haven't had a chance to experiment with either of those yet.

So....... Anyone ever notice a head style that acts oddly when verticaly jigged? That could maybe be a starting point. Or anyone have any other recomendations or ideas i can try? I believe the motion either comes from the lead being in front of the hook eye or a flat top to the head... maybe both? I am grinding my poor gears - smoke will be rolling from my ears soon. - Russ
 

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Hawnjigs

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Keep at it, you could innovate something totally fresh in a field still open to design fabrication. I know that a flat bottom resists vertical drop and may thus facilitate horizontal movement. You could maybe adjust the bill angles of LedHed's Phlatapus for different actions, even perhaps circular swimming.

Have you tried the soldered blade ice jigs? I think that the reduced density of steel/tin vs. lead might be advantageous for your purposes.
 

AtticaFish

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FCBC - Too much time??? haha, if i had just a little more, i would have these perfected by now. :D No test tank, just my pond. I did however have a plan made up awhile back to create a moving water test tank (for a different project i was working on) with a sump pump and some oversized tuperware storage bins! A test tank for these would have to be rather deep, maybe 3 to 4 feet. If i have too much of anything, it is fish/fishing in my brain... :blush: ...trust me, my wife reminds me frequently!!!! ha!

Hawnjigs - Thanks for your help and suggestions in our conversations. I do probably need to go lighter to get these to have more horz. motion to them. I may just have to give a try to soldering blades, but dang that opens a whole new can of worms - i have been resisting a 'new' toy to play with. If you notice, i tend to go over board! :p

I am going to keep at these and will let everyone know what i come up with. If anyone has suggestions, lay them on me, i'm all ears.
 

Hawnjigs

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OK, in addition to a flat bottom to resist sink and reduce resistance to horizontal pivot, the top surface transitioning into the edge should incorporate angles which redirects the downward water pressure produced by an upward pull into a horizontal pivoting force on the head. The nose entry angle and head weight distribution could also be designed to expedite forward motion on the drop.
 

skeetbum

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Aug 26, 2010
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Debary, FL
I have a couple of brushpiles I've been working for a couple of months now, since the water temps went down, that would be a good testing ground for those. I would have bet that the black/gray minnow colors would have been the best, guess I'm partial to that combo. Nice work, outside the box. I have to tie one like #8, good colors and a good change up.
 
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