epoxy based powdercoating clear or white

Bucho

Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2013
Messages
919
Location
Kiel, Germany
Hi,

I have noticed that the -rather expensive - white pearl Pro Tec powder paint I use as a base color is far more chip resistant than my clear coat mixtures. I assume that has something to do with it being epoxy based?

Most of my customers here consider a jig as something that is supposed to be bumped on the ground, so chipping paint is my #1 quality concern.

When I search shops like Rosey´s for epoxy based fomula, the choice is somewhat narrow. Not sure about "hybrid formulas" either. I would love the idea of an eypoxy base clear- coat serving as a base for whatever mixture.

Any hints? :huh: Extra Epoxy dipping is not much of an option yet as I find it very time consuming.
 

hookup

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2012
Messages
2,698
Location
VA
Tickling rocks on the bottom will chip & remove paint.

Best thing I've tried is flex coat 2-step rod building epoxy - time consuming, not 100%, but resistant.
 

Pup

Active member
Joined
Mar 24, 2010
Messages
3,487
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Hookup is right. No paint formulation is unchippable or won't shred at some point.

Not worth the effort to gain any competitive advantage over other makers in my opinion. Market as superior, rather than indestructible/unchippable finishes.
 

Bucho

Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2013
Messages
919
Location
Kiel, Germany
I´m not looking for 100%, my competition over here is industrial China Ware. My paint however chips really easy, particularily on tin jigging spoons.
 

Pup

Active member
Joined
Mar 24, 2010
Messages
3,487
Location
Indianapolis, IN
If you don't feel that there's a curing problem, then I'd explore the options presented in the link below for thermosetting powder coatings.

Types of Powder Coat

Personally, as a fisherman, I like urethane/polyurethane coatings. They shred, rather than chip, and do so only when cast repeatedly and directly against concrete abutments in my experience.
 

Kdog

Moderator
Joined
Apr 26, 2013
Messages
1,808
Location
SW Ohio
The epoxy PC is a bit stronger. However, being a rock fisherman, I have found that surface prep is critical as well as not getting the coating too thick. Freshly cast jigs, I dip in alcohol before coating. If jigs set a while, I use white vinegar (soak for a few hours), followed by a dip in alcohol. Any grease or oil or other surface contaminates will affect adhesion.

Tin and brass, I abrasive blast (Glass bead) before coating.

I admit, I probably go overboard but I dealt with a lot of powder coating issues over the years and failure usually traces back to surface prep issues. Also, too hot/fast of a cure can also cause some issues. The solvents and binders in the powder coat need to be properly cured otherwise premature failure is pending.

Overcoating with clear epoxy powder is also an option but I prefer Devcon 2 ton slow cure or Flex Coat Rod finish and a lure turner to a uniform glossy, clear and durable finish. It adds time and a bit of expense but in reality both are minimal. Time to coat is very fast, but leaving them on a turner for in my case 24 hours is frustrating. Cant make them today and fish tomorrow.

Overcoating with clear epoxy PC is faster and works well.
 

Pup

Active member
Joined
Mar 24, 2010
Messages
3,487
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Here's a little more insight...

Epoxy chips and urethanes/polyurethanes shred imo. It becomes a matter of which a fisherman prefers, if even he/she considers its characteristics regarding this.

Should a fisherman believe that a fish even cares about this...well then, toss a coin. There are pros and cons to both types of finishes depending on your viewpoint, meaning how you choose to use and see/fish them.

Just make sure that you are curing them as prescribed by the paint's manufacturer to get the most out of the finish before it begins to deteriorate, as they all will eventually.
 

Fatman

Active member
Joined
May 1, 2011
Messages
10,523
Location
Northfield, Vermont
Ken Oberecht in his book Anglers Guide to Jigs and Jigging said it!! No paint or epoxy is ever 100% chip proof! then goes on to say "If anyone ever comes up with something that's 100% let me know so I can invest in your product"!!

I'm wondering and I can't say this for a fact because I don't know but!!! is there a different time frame for curing powder paint on tin based pours versus being on lead????

There was a thread on here at one time about bismuth/? mix pour that you had to do something different if you wanted to powder coat them - which explains asking the question above!
 

goodtimesfishing

New member
Joined
Nov 22, 2012
Messages
351
Location
Arlington WA
As for curing of the paint, most don't leave it in the oven as long as you are suppose to. It is important that the clock does NOT start until the BASE METAL(NOT THE PAINT) reaches curing temp. If pp is cured properly it is much tougher. As for a really easy clear coat I use kbs diamond coat. Stuff is great....you can dip and hang....after a few minutes touch the low point with a brush to grab the drip. I have been very happy with how long the jig stays new looking. I started dipping in the diamond coat to seal 3d eyes onto jig. This will work great on your tin and brass. This is a mcu but I have found it does not have the major storability issure like dick nite mcu.
 
Back
Top