Did some more painting today

AllenOK

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Decided I need to tie up some of the Baitfish pattern that was killing the Smallies last year.

View attachment 2


Also decided to do a copycat job on some jigs that someone on a FB is using for Steelhead.  1/32 tube jigs, available from Wally World.

View attachment 3
 

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AllenOK

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Just talked to a few other people. Odds are, those hooks are nowhere near strong enough for Steelhead. I may be in the market for a jig mold now :)
 

hookup

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Allen - post a pix of the end result of the

Baitfish pattern that was killing the Smallies last year.

Nice job on the paint
 

Pup

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AllenOK said:
Odds are, those hooks are nowhere near strong enough for Steelhead.

Have fished for steelhead quite a bit in years past.

Am a big believer that hook strength is far less important to me than line strength, its condition, and a balanced outfit.  Line's are best that are non-nicked or kept out of the sun for extended periods of time, particularly in the case of monofilament.  I wouldn't use a light-wire hook on steelhead in areas where abundant snags exist, as I'd be looking to horse them out of such areas.  From a boat?  Depends on how you desire to fish.  I know that I could get away with them with the right line, rod, reel, and Captain.

You can overpower a light-wire hook with a boat or surf rod and heavier-test line.  Or, you can use a drag properly and catch most any size steelhead on a light-wire hook and relatively lighter line with a bit of skill, savvy, and patience.   Where you are fishing is just one determinant for its use imo.

Will even go one further to say that light-wire hooks give you better penetration in the first place and have a better result in keeping a jumping fish on the line.
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AllenOK

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Pup, I was thinking something along those lines (no pun intended). Most of the guys I've been reading about typically use 10 lbs test (or less) mono on a 9' rod. I know longer rods help protect lighter leaders/tippet, and a properly set drag will help as well.

I've got an 11' (actually minus a couple inches) Steelhead rod, with a Diawa Laguna 4000, loaded with 20 lbs test PowerPro. It worked good for Stripers and Catfish back in OK. I'm sure it would work for Steelhead here, in above-freezing conditions. Most folks won't use Braid in below-freezing conditions; it gunks up the eyes and freezes into the spool.

I have yet to actually go out after any Steelhead. Last winter I didn't have a MI fishing license. Now, I have the license, but no vehicle. Hopefully in a couple weeks. I'm off all this month, and no way to go fishing. SWMBO seems to be completely against me fishing right now, so I can't use her vehicle. Heck, I get chewed out if I put my ice auger into her vehicle to go out and check ice thickness.
 

kingfisher72

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Nice jigs.  Add a couple waxies and they'll catch for sure.  I do a lot of floatfishing for steelhead here in WNY.  Most people fish jigs with hair here which works fine, but there's something magic about a waxworm on a painted tube jig with no hair.  Round jigs will catch fish but not as well as those tube shaped ones.  Don't know why?  They just do!!  Our waters here are much smaller and less volume than MI.  2X hooks would be ideal for you but, I've never had problems with lighter wire hooks.  One tip....(I assume you'll be drifting these under a float) when you hook a fish, don't keep pulling hard on the fish.  After you feel the hook is set, bow the rod to the fish and only apply just enough pull to keep it hooked.  The fish will recover after being pulled up and off balance by the hookset and swim against the pull on it's lip.  Since the float alters the angle of pull, the fish will swim right to you.  Reel him to your feet. Weird tendency they have due to current and the float.  Try and pull the fish back upstream to you and those hooks will bend out.  Good fishing!!
 

AllenOK

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Thanks! Yeah, some of the folks I know are here are fishing painted tube jigs, no dressing, just a waxworm or two. And catching limits!
 
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