Custom Mold Making or Modifying

[papaperch]

:skunked: Since I cannot find ( within reason ) a custom mold maker. Bob at CAT had me spoiled. Even tried to enlist my nephew who is a mechanical engineer. Soooooooooo

I got to thinking. Would a Dremel tool with the press stand be ok for at least making minor modifications on aluminum molds like DO- It makes ? Reading on their website it seems that the tool is capable of doing what I want. Their diamond and carbon tipped cutters ought to cut aluminum rather easily.

My question is have any of you used the Dremel to make or modify a mold to make a custom jig head. Before I waste a 150 dollar bill on tool,.stand, bits and knowing me accessories that I will never use but buy anyway

One project I am contemplating is converting a 1/16 collared six cavity to an aspirin head with recessed eyes. This is a Hilts mold that I no longer use. The collar can be erased using JB weld. The machining is what concerns me.

Am I thinking like Dr. Frankenstien here or am I on the road to scratching a persistent itch ?

 

[Helianthus]

I've actually wondered this to.... and instead of asking I ordered a dremel (since there are so many other uses for it that I seemed to just NEED it). Should be here Monday or Tuesday

Not sure when I'll get to attempt it on making a mold but will one day. A while back I found an article of the step by step process of making a mold and seem to not be able to find it. Anybody have a link?

 

[redman]

Papa yes I did one with a flex shaft dental type tool. Worked great go slow and you should be ok. The only other advise I will give you is if you are going to cut into the aluminum lube the cutter with some kerosene. That seems to be the best thing to use since they pulled Tap Magic off the market several years ago.


Redman

 

[Hawnjigs]

I've gotten my money's worth modifying hook eye mold sockets with this:
http://www.micromark.com/microlux-3-speed-mini-drill-press,7797.html

Chose the Microlux over the Dremel stand after reading online reviews complaining that the stand afforded too much play at the bit for precision drilling.

 

[Fatman]

Good looking machine thanks for the info

 

[upnort16]

I have used the dremel tool for cutting aluminum. My advise is to invest in good quality carbide burrs, like found in machinist supply houses. Use the standard tooth for fine and finish, use the coarse teeth for roughing or major removal. Spin the tool as fast as possible and use wd40 for lubricant or bits will plug in seconds! If you wish to secure the tool in a stand, use a small cross-slide vice in a baking pan to help contain some of the sray. Feed steady and let the bit dictate cutting feed rate, a very smooth finish is attainable. The more solid all of the stuff is secured the better the results, less chatter, less broken bits, and the tool does not need to be submersed in wd40, just keep the flutes clear and cool. With securing mold in a vise or clamp, a two hand grip on the dremel will allow for fine detail, one hand on tool, other one keeping first one steady, like a guide. I have done very intricate race car parts in this manner, so I know it works. Just practice a bit to get the feel, then modify away.

 

[hookup]

I just free hand with a dremel and the smallest carbite bit Home depot carries.

Works for me.

 

[smalljaw]

Yep, carbide bit and free hand with the flex shaft!!! The secret is to measure and mark and measuer again and then go slow!!!!!

 

[hookup]

Yep, carbide bit and free hand with the flex shaft!!! The secret is to measure and mark and measuer again and then go slow!!!!!

I'll add pour - or try to.

Take a little off, see if it works. If not take a little more off. Pour. Repeat until perfect.

 

[Fatman]

I'm too much of a coward to do it myself!!!!!!

 

[redman]

This is just a for what it's worth. If any of you have a dentist friend ask him for some of his old dental drills. I have found that this are by far the best thing to use to to modify a mold. They come in a fine and a course cut I like the fine as it take off less and I can get where I need to be with no trouble.

I guess that good hand,eye coordination is a must for this type of work. But we have to have good hand ,eye coordination to do this jig and fly tying.

Redman

 

[upnort16]

I discovered something almost by accident today and wanted to pass it along. While the project involved making a bunch of cuts in aluminum with a small air saw as the piece is too big to fit in the band saw, I tried a squirt bottle filled with water and a splash of dishsoap. While cutting and spraying, the blade not once clogged, ran cool and actually kept the kerf clean. Excited about this new solution, I grabbed the die grinder, a scrap of 6061 and tested it out. It Worked! While this is on my bench and in a shop environment, spraying a bit of soap water would not harm a thing and is much more cost effective the WD40. However, if the piece were on my milling machine, drill press or lathe, I would opt for the WD40 as water and machine tools don't mix well. At least the rust issue would scare me some. Just thinking about the freehand user and plugging of the cutters. Should make mold modifacations a bit easier, Good luck and happy creating.

 

[redman]

Upnort16 try some kerosene works much better and if you really want to get fancy use some oil of wintergreen. I am sure that you will be impressed. Work for to many years cutting metal and know most all the tricks. Always thought that a little oil of some sort went a long way. will give your method a try and see how it works. Some times you can teach a old dog a new trick.

Redman