|Jig 'n' Zonk
|Tools / Materials Needed
Start thread and create
a thread base to the
bend of the hook. This
helps to keep the
zonker strips from
slipping on the shank.
|Jig 'n' Zonk
|Tutorial created by JigCraft member:
For any questions or comments on this
tutorial, please post here...
Jig 'n' Zonk
Tie in a cut piece of rabbit zonker on
the bottom/side of the hook shank.
The hide can be placed up or down - i
prefer the hide side down.
Rotate the jig in your vise to tie in a
second piece of cut zonker on the other
side of the hook shank.
Line up the ends of the 6 orange
silicone strands and tie them to the
bottom of the hook shank. To keep the
silicone from slipping around the hook
shank, make 3-5 thread wraps with
light/medium tension just to put the
silicone on the shank. You can now
move and slide the silicone to where
you want it. Once in place, make
several thread wraps with heavy
tension to secure them.
Line up the opposite ends of the orange
silicone strands and tie them to the bottom side
of the shank as well creating a loop of the
silicone material. Leaving them in this loop
helps keep the silicone out of the way while you
|I tie this style to replicate the popular Jig'n'Pig lures used by many bass fishermen and women. The majority of J'n'P jigs are heavy
style heads and by making my own i can adjust jig weight to smaller, more finesse sizes. The smaller sizes of these (under 1/8th oz.)
have proven to be very effective for smallmouth bass in both lakes and rivers. The silicone legs at the front of the jig also help to
slow the fall of the jigs even more.
Any tail material can be used in place of the rabbit zonker to create the 'Pig" of this combination which is traditionaly a pork trailer or
other soft plastic bait. I like both regular and wide zonkers for the fast action that they have - but also use craft fur, bucktail or
Line up the ends
of the 4
strands and tie
them to the top
side hook shank.
Line up the opposite ends of
these silicone strands and tie
them in as in previous steps.
Once all the silicone is tied in,
be sure to make several tight
thread wraps to secure it.
Excess silicone can be
trimmed from the thread body
at this point.
Tie in the 2 colors of chenille at
the back of the jig and then wrap
your thread up so it is just
behind the jig head.
Tightly twist the 2 colors of chenille together.
Wrap the twisted chenille evenly up to the jig
head. Make 1 extra wrap of the chenille at the
jig head so it keeps the silicone tight up against
the jig head. You may need to straighten out
some of the silicone to make sure it stays
where you intended it to be. Orange on the
bottom and brown/black barred at top.
Make a few wraps on each side of the chenille
tag end to secure it in place and trim the
excess chenille. You can now make you finish
knot and trim your thread. I use a whip finish
knot done by hand, making large loops with
my fingers to go over the silicone. Make sure
the finish knot is behind the silicone to keep
the leg material pointing towards the front of
|If you wishto keep the silicone legs long
giving the jig a larger profile, you can trim
each of the strands in the middle of the
loop. You will end up with legs just under
2.5" doing it this way if your original
silicone was 5".
|For this jig, i wanted to keep the legs short
for a smaller profile. To do this, I hold the
silicone in a bundle out the front of the jig
and trim them all the same length with one
|Jig 'n' Buck
Made with buck tail and a
large size black chenille
twisted with large orange