Since switching to Gulp! never used em because the Gulp! latex (?) material is prone to permanent package memory which means the tails end up pretty much any which shape EXCEPT the planned straight perpendicular to the body.

However, JiggerJohn suggested a lift drop retrieve for finicky wipers best served by wedge tails which vibrate on a drop rather than my usual tiny fork stick tails of the Gulp! Minnows so I got a few embedded head chartreuse shad 3" Power Bait Pogies from Walmart and they indeed got bit.  Since then I've alternated them with my usual 3" Gulp! Minnows on a jighead with good results, switching between them when the bite slows.  Downside is that the 3" Power Pogy #1 hook seems too small for larger wipers and I got a lot of drop offs recently during a big wiper bite, so currently shopping for Power Bait Pro Shads in 2-1/2" & 3-1/2" sizes to attach onto larger hook jig heads.

So, anyone else like em?  Or not?

I used protec powder paint for the first time and this os the result.

I used a heatgun, dipped, tapped the excess powder, run it on the heat fun again and I let it cool. 

Will baking smoothen this out or I did something wrong?

I've been wondering how folks here paint their ice-fishing tungsten jigs.  The few I've seen look like a basecoat of powderpaint, and then fine details with some kind of liquid paint over the pp.  I've been thinking it was fingernail polish.

I did some for a friend, as he was wanting some powder-painted heads, but was rather insistent that the jigs have eyes.  I got some fingernail polish, and some bamboo skewers, which I sanded the tips off.  I did a nice dip into pp, then back over my oil lamp to melt the pp some (not a full cure).  Painted the eyes on with the skewers. 

   

My plan was to reheat the jigs, then dip into 200% clear for a top-coat, then cure them in the oven.  Here's what I got:

   

That was weird.  The "eyes" shrank in circumference, but puffed out, forming a weird 3D eye spot.  I have not heard if my buddy likes these or not.

I've done a test by coating a similar jighead with Loon Flow UV Resin and hitting it with a UV torch.  It works as a topcoat, but I'm not sure how durable it is.  I may have to go with a clear epoxy of some kind, or just leave them without a topcoat.  I may even buy a few vinyl paints and give that a go, but working in this basement that I'm renting, with no ventilation, is probably not a good idea.

Got to take a quick peek at the Mustads that I ordered. They look pretty good and appeared to be a bit heavier. This AM I grabbed a mic and compared with a EC that was close by and it appears that the mustads are about .004 heavier. I’ll have to check closer maybe tonight to make sure I was comparing same sizes but they seem stiffer.

Ok, measured some #4" and 2/0's tonight. 
EC Nasty #4  .027
Matzu #4      .029
Mustad SJ     .032
Mustad also had a .120 longer shank

EC Nasty #2/0 .036
Matzu     #2/0 .037
Mustad   #2/0 .040
All were the same length but the bends are a little different I suppose for patent reasons. Sharpness seems to be about the same but I haven't checked the whole bag. Have to see how they hold up to the stress test when I get around to that. Someone here has probably already gone through that.
With the larger shank I'm hoping to eliminate the flashing on the shanks and up around the eye's on a couple of my molds. Was more of a problem on a couple of hilts that I have.

Been working on these since a few years back. If some of you remember old thread about John Fujita's No-Name lure. Jack Fujita ( his nephew) sold me some of the old original No-Names so I could compare with the ones I was making. Basically I quit worrying about trying to imitate the curved front part of lure. I like two sizes # 12 hook pattern and # 8 hook pattern. Used ice fishing blade for front part. Can use standard hook or if you want vertical use jig hook. I substituted Ram's wool instead of chicken feathers for trailer hook. One strand of flash to make it pop.

If ever a case of less is more. Trying to get this lure to work as good as the original was hard. Mainly I kept putting too much material on . Last year I started tying with less and eureka .
All the patterns worked to some degree.  But the minimalist ( final pattern ) are just DEADLY.

While Mr Fujita designed is as a trout /panfish lure. It also took big fish back in the day. Well that has not changed. To prevent too any break offs I use modern braided line to connect the two hooks. After comparing in tank and actual clear lake water. These resemble a very small whitish minnow. The supreme test will be through the ice this year.




Took pic of pattern while wet to give idea how small it really is. While small the results are usually big. Next pics just a few of today's victims of Mr Fujita's idea.








Didn't take ruler with me but those planks are 6 inches wide.

Been pretty quiet around here as I figure everyones probably busy. Have had these done for quite a while and just haven't gotten them on here. Had a few min this AM so here ya go.
The blue looking spin in the upper left is suppose to be blue and purple but didn't show up that way. 1/8 to 1/32 Some auto's I tried, a little mallard flank, craft hair, neck hackle and rubber legs. Large eye's are tulip

   

it's been a while since I've been on here and I see so my old posted  from a year ago or two  will try to get on here more often and post some of my latest work we've got quite a few new baits  now  in your getting two new molds here shortly.

Attached Files

  DSC_0189.JPG (Size: 30.73 KB / Downloads: 187)

I'm still catching with these so I'm still tying them. 1/64 now on #10 lil nasty or #12 sickle hooks. Think the little sickles hook better but both have been doing the job on redear, gills, bass, catfish and carp if they wouldn't break me off.              

I've been messing with Blade baits for a long time and have a quandry.  Would love some input on this one.

Although I prefer using the Mustad 7790 open shank treble hook,  or VMC 9607BZ.  I occasionally get ticked off and use split rings and a more conventional treble or a short shank treble to reduce fowling.  

I know we have a few here that make and use blade baits. Please weigh in with pros and cons about the various methods.  I make my lures just so I dont whine about loosing them.  They often get snagged on rocks logs trees etc and rather than spending countless hours unsnagging, I break off and move on.  I just bought an ultra minnow mold because come november and december i'm thinking those 1oz, 1 1/4oz and 1 1/2 oz make be just the ticket during high water and increased water flow.  Before I finish a couple hundred would really love some biased input on the best hook system for blade baits

This year I couldn`t wait and opened the season (June 1th) at 0:00h. Those are cm.   Got another one that was a bit smaller. Nice opening. Things will get more hairy later into the summer when the fry overwhelmes the fish so I make the most out of June.